Eat at a Dai Pai Dong

 Dai pai dong doesn’t refer to a specific dish or restaurant but a type of Chinese eating establishment. You can think of it as an open-air food stall in Hong Kong, similar to a yatai stall in Fukuoka or a hawker stall in Singapore.  

Dai pai dong began cropping up as unlicensed food stalls in Hong Kong during the late 19th century. They provided cheap wok hei dishes on folding tables and chairs by the side of the road. Like any street food stall, they were characterized by their lack of air-conditioning and generally untidy atmosphere.

After World War II, the government began issuing licenses to operate these food stalls, giving rise to the term dai pai dong which literally translates to “big license stall”. This was in reference to the size of the license plates which were much larger than those of typical street food vendors.

Since 1975, many dai pai dong have been moved to indoor markets and cooked food centers. You’ll find many of these more modern versions of dai pai dong throughout Hong Kong, but one particularly famous one is the Tung Po restaurant  in North Point (pictured below). It was featured on the Hong Kong episode of No Reservations with Anthony Bourdain.

We loved Tung Po but if you’re interested in a more traditional dai pai dong experience, then you can still find a few operating in Sham Shui Po.

The dai pai dong has come a long way since its humble beginnings. The very first stalls offered simple everyday meals like congee, rice, and noodles but these days, you can order pretty much anything at a dai pai dong.

Pictured below is a delicious plate of razor clams with vermicelli noodles from Tung Po. Tung Po may not fit the description of a classic dai pai dong anymore but it’s a fun and lively restaurant offering fantastic food.